The fastest way to stall as a new woodworker is to spend your whole budget on one big machine and then discover you have no clamps, no square and no way to sand. The good news: you can build a bookcase, a workbench and a raised garden bed with a short list of hand held tools.
This list is ordered by priority. Buy the first group, build something, and let your next project tell you what to add.
1. Safety gear (buy this before anything else)
- Safety glasses that wrap around the sides. Wear them every time a tool is running, including drills.
- Hearing protection: foam plugs or earmuffs. Circular saws and miter saws are loud enough to damage hearing over time.
- Dust masks: disposable N95 masks are fine for sanding and cutting. Fine wood dust irritates the lungs, and some species are worse than others.
Also skip loose sleeves, dangling cords and jewelry near spinning blades and bits.
2. Measuring and marking
- Tape measure (16 or 25 ft): pick one with clear 1/16" markings.
- Speed square: a triangular square for marking square lines and guiding a circular saw. Probably the most useful cheap tool in the shop.
- Combination square (12"): for checking that cuts and assemblies are square and for marking lines parallel to an edge.
- Pencils (a carpenter pencil or a mechanical pencil for fine lines).
3. A saw for straight cuts
You need at least one way to cut boards to length accurately. Your options:
- Circular saw: the most versatile first saw. It crosscuts boards and, with a straightedge guide, cuts plywood sheets. Use a speed square as a fence for square crosscuts.
- Miter saw: faster and more accurate for crosscuts and angles, but it cannot cut plywood sheets. Great second saw.
- Hand saw: a Japanese style pull saw cuts cleanly and quietly. Slower, but fine for small projects like a cutting board or birdhouse.
A jigsaw is a helpful addition for curves, notches and cutouts, but it is hard to cut long straight lines with one.
4. Drill/driver and bits
- Cordless drill/driver: drills pilot holes and drives screws. A clutch that you can set prevents stripping screws.
- Drill bits: a basic twist bit set plus a countersink bit that drills the pilot hole and the cone for the screw head in one step.
- Driver bits: Phillips and square drive (#2 is the common size).
- Spade bits (1" and 1-1/2") for larger holes, such as a tote handle or birdhouse entrance.
5. Clamps
Woodworkers joke that you can never have enough clamps, and it is true. Clamps hold parts while glue dries, keep boards still while you cut and act as a third hand during assembly.
- Four bar clamps or quick clamps, 12" to 24" capacity, cover most beginner projects.
- Pipe clamps are an affordable way to get long clamps later for glue ups and wide panels.
6. Sanding
- Random orbit sander (5"): leaves a smooth surface quickly without obvious swirl marks.
- Sandpaper: 80 grit for shaping and removing marks, 120 for general smoothing, 180 to 220 before finishing.
- A cork or rubber sanding block for edges and small parts.
7. Supplies you will use on every project
- Wood glue (a water resistant type covers indoor and many outdoor uses)
- Wood screws in a few common sizes, such as #8 x 1-1/4" and #8 x 2"
- Wood filler, rags and a finish (wipe on polyurethane is forgiving for beginners)
Rough starter budget
Prices change often and vary by brand and region. These are rough 2026 ranges for entry level and mid range tools at US home centers:
| Item | Rough price range |
|---|---|
| Safety glasses, hearing protection, masks | $25 to $50 |
| Tape measure, speed square, combination square | $30 to $60 |
| Circular saw | $60 to $180 |
| Cordless drill/driver with battery | $70 to $180 |
| Bits (twist set, countersink, spade, driver) | $25 to $50 |
| Four clamps | $40 to $100 |
| Random orbit sander and paper | $50 to $110 |
Buying used is a great option for saws and sanders. Check that guards work and cords are not damaged.
What can wait
- Table saw: powerful and useful, but it needs space, a good blade and real training. Learn with hand held tools first.
- Router: great for rounding edges and cutting grooves, but none of your first projects require one. Sandpaper rounds an edge just fine.
- Planer and jointer: only needed if you buy rough lumber. Store bought boards are already surfaced.
- Pocket hole jig: a nice upgrade for hidden screws on furniture. Add it when screws through the face start to bother you.
- Brad nailer: handy for attaching plywood backs and trim, but a hammer works.
Where to work
You do not need a shop. Two sawhorses and a sheet of rigid foam insulation make a cutting station: lay plywood on the foam and set the circular saw blade about 1/4" deeper than the plywood thickness. The foam supports both sides of the cut so nothing pinches or falls. Once you can, build a simple 2x4 workbench (project 8 in our free PDF).